ShortScale.org

He wanted it on the top, I told him it couldn't fit there, because it can't. Order toggles are 3PDT toggle switches, they're pretty big and stick out a lot. Just have a look at how packed the Dual Drive I just made is and you'll see what I'm playing with in terms of trying to cram stuff into the case.

Just wondering if you're able to make me a Zvex Super Duper and if so what would the price be?

Yup, I can do that, basically it's two SHOs and a master volume, so £70 + P&P

Cheers
M

Actually, I like the idea of tone controls on each of the 2 circuits - would you be able to put 2 of your Saltbooster Plusses in one box?

I could - would you want there to be a Master Volume like the Super Duper or just two Saltbooster Pluses back to back?

Note - they sound nothing like Super Hard Ons, separate or when combined.

johnnyseven wrote:Actually, I like the idea of tone controls on each of the 2 circuits - would you be able to put 2 of your Saltbooster Plusses in one box?

The reason I want this is to boost the start of my chain, however my 2 guitars have different volume outputs and different amounts of trebliness. I'm looking for something to allow me to boost the signal from each guitar in one pedal (without having to adjust the controls 'cos that's a pain) but I also think a control to enable me to vary the trebliness for each guitar would be good as well. I'm looking for something to add balls to the sound but to not take away from either guitar's character, if that makes sense. To make the sound sparkly but without too much bottom end. Do you think the Super Duper or the 2 Saltboosters would be more suitable?

Maybe ask Tim to make you a couple of Micro Boost pedals in one? A SHO is going to add brightness, and a Saltbooster is a thick boost. Sounds like you want neither of them.

Thanks the advice Mike, I think I need to work out what will do what I want before I commit anything but i'll certainly investigate the Micro Boost option.

One thing that I do know that I need is a single true bypass loop. One input, one output, one send, one return, one LED and one switch to turn the loop on/off. Would need to be portrait in orientation and the jack sockets would need to be positioned so I can sit the pedal right next to the other true bypass looper you made for me (the complicated one) - I realise I may have to measure this if you haven't retained details of this previous build. Could it also be painted metallic black like my previous ones? How much would you charge for this?

Depends what size you want it and where you want the jacks - and whether it's possible in the size of case you want - but generally I can do that type of thing for £30-£40 depending.

I was hoping that you'd be able to do it in one of your smaller boxes (Phase 90 size). Position of the jacks doesn't matter other than for the input jack on the right hand side so that it's not in the same place as the output jack of the pedal it will sit next to on my board. Maybe put the send and return on the top edge (or at the top of left and right sides) with the output and power jack on the left hand side anywhere that you think is appropriate. It would be useful if the switch could be near the right hand side on the bottom though so I can stomp it and the A/B switch on my other true bypass looper at the same time.

johnnyseven wrote:I was hoping that you'd be able to do it in one of your smaller boxes (Phase 90 size). Position of the jacks doesn't matter other than for the input jack on the right hand side so that it's not in the same place as the output jack of the pedal it will sit next to on my board. Maybe put the send and return on the top edge (or at the top of left and right sides) with the output and power jack on the left hand side anywhere that you think is appropriate. It would be useful if the switch could be near the right hand side on the bottom though so I can stomp it and the A/B switch on my other true bypass looper at the same time.

Should be possible.

I can do send and return on the top, but they'll be no space for a DC jack. So if that and the output can go on the left that will help. Output on the left will have to be low enough not to interfere with send and return on the top. DC below that. Jack on the right can be anywhere as long as it's below the jacks on the top, and above the switch which you want on that side.

Let me know if you want to do it, I'll need the measurements.

That sounds fine to me. I definitely want it but i'll have to get back to you with the measurements on sunday or monday.

I've been looking through this thread a ton. Mainly at the gut shots. I'm seriously amazed how much stuff you can fit inside those boxes!


Also, would you mind posting whatever diagram you use for the switch/jacks/power. I'm having issues with the switching on a pedal I'm building!

Thanks for the kind words!

You can find all that stuff on beavisaudio.com. I don't use diagrams myself, but I use an input grounded 3PDT wiring scheme generally.

Benecol's Tonebender MK II
Soul Bender
Modded 808 Tubescreamer
Saltbooster
Fender Blender


And progress thus far on an OpenHaus

who is putting you though such pain for the OpenHaus and I hope you are getting rewarded properly.

A guy from my work who's interested in one. He's a nice chap, he actually re-built a HiWatt from scratch for his brother which is impressive. He's making another for himself while I build this.

Don't worry, I'm being adequately compensated for this one and all esoteric parts are additionally paid for by him.
Why am I doing it? Because I love a challenge. I remember the first time I made a Tremolo, a Delay, a Klon - they're all daunting at first.

That looks crazy. Crazy awesome.

OPENHAUS LOOKS LIKE A PAIN IN THE ARSE.